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Cleaning Carpets.... This page offers a number of tips about how to clean your Carpet. See also our discussion of caring for your Carpet. The best way to keep a Carpet clean is to keep it from getting dirty in the first place. Removing outdoor shoes when entering the house (as people do in most Carpet-weaving countries) is a good idea if this accords with your lifestyle. Bare-foot or sock-foot traffic is much gentler to a Carpet than a hard outdoor-shoe sole (or spike heel), and leaving your outdoor shoes at the entrance to the house tracks in much less dirt. Have your Carpet cleaned only when it really needs it. For Carpets in some areas this will mean a yearly cleaning. Carpets in other areas can go several years and more without needing professional cleaning. To judge how dirty a Carpet is, try one of these methods: Pick up a corner of the Carpet and while holding it, kick the back of the Carpet sharply. If a cloud of dirt flies out of the pile, the Carpet is dirty and needs cleaning. NOTE: some dust and wool fibers are normal! Kneel down on the Carpet and rub the pile vigorously with your hand in a short arc for 5 to 10 seconds. Look at your fingers and palm: if your hand is dirty, the Carpet needs cleaning. With the pile facing UP fold part of the Carpet back upon itself so that the pile opens along a line of knots. Look down into the base of the pile at the foundation of the Carpet. If the warp and weft look dirty, there is dirt deep in the pile where a home vacuum cleaner cannot reach it. The Carpet needs cleaning. Clean It Yourself It's easy to clean small Carpets yourself. The process is best done in a utility room or garage (on a clean floor) or outside on a clean driveway or paved walk on a nice, sunny day: Vacuum both sides well. Shampoo the Carpet with cool water and mild liquid soap or Carpet shampoo (don't use strong detergents, ammonia water or sudsy ammonia water). TEST FOR COLOR RUN IN A SMALL AREA FIRST. Use a soft, long haired brush or a firm, non-shedding sponge. Brush the pile firmly with linear motions in the direction of the nap: don't scrub too vigorously. Wet the nap thoroughly with the soapy water. Wash fringes with the same soap solution. Use a laundry brush and brush repeatedly away from the pile. Rinse thoroughly with running water. Squeeze out excess water--a rubber window squeegee works well. Squeegee the pile repeatedly in the direction of the nap until no more water is forced out. Lay flat to dry. When the nap feels dry, turn the Carpet over; the back is probably still damp. DRY THOROUGHLY. If the pile feels a bit stiff when dry, brush gently or lightly vacuum. Professional carpet cleaning, professional Carpet cleaners, professional Carpet cleaning New York, Carpet cleaner New York, Carpets. Carpet cleaner, Carpet cleaners NY, Carpet cleaning, Carpet cleaning company New York, Carpet cleaning equipment, Carpet cleaning product NY, Carpet cleaning service, Carpet cleaning services New York, Carpet cleaning supplies, Carpet supplies NY. Carpet First Aid.... Always try to work on the spill so as not to increase the area of the spill. Food spills/Pet urine Of the most common spills, urine presents the most severe problem. It can cause severe color run in the Carpet, and the odor can be very hard to remove or disguise. Urine can also chemically damage the structure of a Carpet by making the foundation hard and less supple, and the presence of urine in a Carpet can help attract moths. Repeated wettings can cause the foundation of the Carpet to loose mechanical strength to the point where the Carpet cracks and breaks when rolled or folded. In case of a food spill or urine on a Carpet, the problem is much more easily handled if the spot is treated promptly, before the spill is allowed to dry. Blot up as much liquid as possible with paper towels or a clean, white cloth. Try to rinse out as much of the spill as possible. A smaller Carpet can be taken outside and rinsed with a hose and cool water (try not to saturate the whole Carpet--it will take much longer to dry if you do). With a larger carpet, the corner or edge can be laid in a plastic dishpan and saturated with cool water or a bucket or plastic garbage can can be placed under the wet area of the carpet and cool water poured through the Carpet (make a hollow in the carpet over the container before you pour, and don't exceed the capacity of the container under the Carpet!). Add about 1 cup of white vinegar per gallon to the rinse water--vinegar helps prevent colors from running and will help neutralize the urine odor. After the Carpet has been rinsed, blot dry and sponge with Carpet shampoo or with the solution given below. Let dry thoroughly (drying a wet area of a larger carpet can be hastened by arranging the carpet so that air can circulate both top and bottom--drape the end of the carpet across a lawn chair, or put a sawhorse or painted bench under the Carpet in the area of the wet spot). Pet stool, regurgitation If a pet regurgitates on a Carpet, you are faced with removing a complex mixture of foodstuffs, saliva, and stomach acids. Depending on the foods involved, this mixture can actually work as a dilute dye to stain the pile a different hue. If a pet regurgitates or defecates on a Carpet, clean the area immediately by picking up as much material as possible with paper towels or with a clean, white cloth. If necessary, use a tablespoon to scrape up all the foreign material. Blot the area dry and immediately sponge several times with Carpet shampoo or with the cleaning solution listed below. Don't scrub hard--too much manipulation of the pile can spread the stain. Sponge in the direction of the nap. Spot Cleaning Solution 1/4 cup white vinegar* 1/2 tsp liquid dishwashing detergent 2 cups tepid water *Most Carpet dyes are acid-fast. By adding a little white vinegar to the wash water you make the wash water more acidic, and this reinforces the bond between the dyestuff and the wool in the Carpet, and so helps prevent the colors from running. Finally, sponge the area with cool, clean water to finish. Use absorbent towels or a firm, non-shedding sponge. Don't use a brush so stiff that it pulls fibers from the pile. Don't scrub hard at the pile. Sponge in the direction of the nap. Place some towels under the spot to keep floor or pad from getting wet. Dry thoroughly. When the nap feels dry, check the back of the Carpet to be sure the area is completely dry. Water Damage Moth Damage Carpet Beetle Damage Dog Chews Cat Scratching Vacuum Cleaner Damage Chemical Damage Sun Damage Uneven Wear To Move a Carpet To Lay a Carpet Flat Carpet Pads Curled Corners and Curled Edges Sizing or Blocking a Carpet Storage Caring for Your Carpet.... A genuine hand knotted Carpet will last a very long time if you take a few precautions to protect it from premature wear and the most common kinds of damage. Common problems include water damage, moth damage, dog chews and cat scratching, pet stains, vacuum cleaner damage, chemical damage, sun damage, and uneven wear. This page tries to answer the most frequently-asked questions about caring for Carpet. See also our recommendations for cleaning your Carpet. Water Damage Moth Damage Carpet Beetle Damage Dog Chews Cat Scratching Vacuum Cleaner Damage Chemical Damage Sun Damage Uneven Wear To Move a Carpet To Lay a Carpet Flat Carpet Pads Curled Corners and Curled Edges Sizing or Blocking a Carpet Storage Water Damage Most varieties of Carpet have wool pile, but many have cotton warp and weft (the warp is the foundation upon which knots are tied to create the pile; the weft runs over and under warp strings between rows of knots to strengthen the Carpet from side to side). This cotton foundation can be weakened, and sometimes actually rotted, if the Carpet is wetted repeatedly and not properly dried. A common cause of such damage occurs when potted plants are placed directly on a Carpet. The plant is watered regularly, the pot leaks, and the Carpet under the pot stays permanently damp. Within two or three weeks the foundation of the Carpet can become so weak that chunks can be torn from the affected area by hand. If you use planters near a Carpet, try to place them on a slim legged stool, or a caster-based support that lets you see under the pot and allows for ventilation. After watering the plant check to be sure the Carpet under it is completely dry. Another form of water damage can affect Carpets used in a basement or other area below grade level. If the basement floods the potential for damage is obvious. The Carpet must be removed quickly, properly cleaned, and allowed to dry completely. A more insidious form of damage can be caused by using a Carpet over a damp floor (as is often the case if the floor is cement). Even though the floor is not noticeably wet to the touch, there can be enough moisture to allow microorganisms to flourish in the material of the warp and weft and to degrade the strength of the Carpet's foundation. A Carpet damaged in this way will often feel peculiarly stiff when manipulated. The Carpet will sometimes be so stiff it will be difficult to roll, and if you listen carefully to the back of the carpet when it is creased or folded, you can often hear the cracks and popping noises made by breaking warp and weft fibers. Carpet cleaning, Carpet cleaning equipment New York, cleaning Carpet NY, floor Carpet, oriental carpet cleaning, Carpet cleaner, Carpet cleaners, Carpet cleaning New York, Carpet cleaning NYC, Carpet cleaning NYC, Carpet cleaning equipment, professional carpet cleaner, professional carpet cleaners NY. Moth Damage Flying clothes moths do not eat your Carpets, but the females do lay hundreds of eggs each, and the eggs hatch into larvae that consume wool, fur, feather, and silk fibers. Moths and their larvae thrive in dark, undisturbed areas where a Carpet gets little traffic and is not often vacuumed. A bad infestation sometimes leaves a cobweb-like veil in the area of the damage, along with fine, sand-like debris. An infestation often involves more than one Carpet, and can spread to (or from) woolens or furs hanging in a closet or sweaters stored in a drawer. A Carpet damaged by moths is not difficult to repair, but reweaving a large area of the Carpet can be expensive. The life cycle of the clothes moth (Not to scale) To identify the presence of moths, look for one or more of these signs (see pictures here): flying moths -- the common clothing moth (tineola bisselliella) is the villain. It's small, 3/8" long or less, and is usually silvery tan or soft brown in color. This moth flies slowly but with a rapid flutter of small wings. If you try to snatch one out of the air, the clothes moth folds its wings and drops to the floor. bare spots in the pile -- often moth larvae will prefer the taste of one color yarn over another, and so the bare spots may involve some specific colors but not others. webs -- white gossamer filaments covering a patch of the Carpet's pile (often only present with a bad infestation). cocoons -- 1/8" diameter x 1/2" long slightly fuzzy cylinders usually the same color as the Carpet's pile (larvae camouflage their cocoons to blend in with the color of the wool that surrounds them). larvae in the pile -- slender, white, worm-like moth larvae about 3/8" long can sometimes be seen just after hatching, before they've constructed cocoons. It is the larvae that actually eat the wool. sand-like particles down in the pile of the Carpet -- this material, often tan or brown in color, regular in size, and granular in look, is the excretion of the larvae. broken/loose plies -- where the larvae have chewed through yarn over castings or bindings. To prevent moth damage: Vacuum the entire face of the Carpet weekly if possible. At least several times a year, vacuum the back side of the Carpet and the pad and floor underneath. If the Carpet is too large to handle, flip the edges over, and vacuum at least one to two feet in along the borders on the back side of the Carpet. The corresponding areas on the pad and floor should also be vacuumed. Be aware that moth balls, flakes, or crystals (naphthalene or par dichlorobenzene) are ineffective in moth control for Carpets. These materials act only as a minor repellent to moths. They do not kill moth larvae, and the naphthalene odor can be unpleasant and difficult to remove from the Carpet. Cedar scent is useless as a prevention for moth damage. Any place the vacuum cannot reach, such as areas of the Carpet under furniture, or a Carpet hung on the wall, can be sprayed with a household, non-staining insecticide made for the purpose. Most of these products contain pyrethrums (a class of insecticide originally extracted from the flower heads of chrysanthemums) among the active ingredients. Although poisonous to many varieties of insects, pyrethrums break down quickly after application and are considered safe for use in the home. BE CAREFUL IN CHOOSING AND APPLYING ANY INSECTICIDE. Choose a product designed for the intended use and follow directions for application, storage, and disposal carefully. If a Carpet will be stored for a long period see the recommendations on storage. Carpet Beetle Damage Similar in appearance to moth damage, but caused by the larvae of a small (1/8" long), dark brown or brown-black insect. Beetle larvae damage is usually not as severe, nor as messy as moth damage. Strategies to prevent or treat moth damage will be effective against carpet beetles as well. Dog Chews Puppies tend to chew Carpets because of tooth growth. The best way to prevent chew damage is to control the puppy by keeping it away from the Carpet. Sometimes sprinkling an ounce of moth flakes under the Carpet along the edges will help the dog keep his distance from the Carpet. Cat Scratching Cats which are not declawed can do significant damage to a Carpet if they habitually sharpen their claws on it. As with dog chews, the best prevention is to control the cat's activities. Sometimes a squirt gun (squirt the cat when it starts to scratch the Carpet) can be used to condition the cat to avoid the Carpet. Vacuum Cleaner Damage In almost all instances, regular vacuuming of an Carpet with an electric vacuum cleaner is good for the Carpet--a dirty Carpet wears prematurely, and regular vacuuming helps prevent dirt on the surface of the Carpet from filtering down into the pile where it can accumulate and cause increased wear. Still, be careful with a cleaner equipped with a power brush or "beater bar"; these powered brushes in the vacuum head help the vacuum do a good job on machine-made carpeting, but they cause a raking effect on the top layer of an Carpet's pile if used too strenuously. If your vacuum cleaner has a power brush, use it only occasionally and lightly on your Carpet. For routine cleaning, use just the plain vacuum nozzle. This is especially important for fringes; try not to run an upright vacuum or a power brush attachment over fringes. The brush shreds the fringes and causes rapid wear. Frequently fringes get caught and chewed up by the rotating mechanism of the brush. Chemical Damage An old trick of some Carpet cleaners is to bleach the cotton fringe of a Carpet snowy white before returning the Carpet to the customer (on the theory that if the fringe looks nice and clean, the whole Carpet looks cleaner). Unfortunately, chlorine based bleach weakens natural fiber over time. We have seen many Carpets with "dead fringe"--fringe so weakened by repeated bleaching that a tug on the fringe will tear away small bits. If you must have snowy white fringe, use a dilute bleach solution, and be sure to rinse the fringe very thoroughly. Sun Damage Most Carpet dyes are quite resistant to sun fading or bleaching. Still, ultraviolet rays are a powerful force of Nature, and a Carpet will likely fade over time if used for years in a very sunny area. Consider sheer drapes to block some of the direct sunlight, and try to turn the Carpet end-for-end once a year to even out possible color changes. Uneven Wear A Carpet should be turned end-for-end once every year or two to even out wear and color change. Try not to use a Carpet on a very uneven floor. An area of the floor that is raised (a loose floorboard, a transition strip from one flooring material to another, etc.) causes the part of the Carpet that covers it to wear much more rapidly than the rest of the Carpet. To Move a Carpet When you move a big Carpet to adjust its position, there is a better way than just to pull with brute force on the fringe or edge. A simple trick is to rapidly wave the edge of the Carpet up and down a foot or two close to the floor while pulling. This ripple effect sends a cushion of air under the Carpet, making it very easy to move. To Lay a Carpet Flat If a Carpet has been folded for shipping, there may be wrinkles or creases when you lay it down. To flatten them out, first determine which way the nap lays (rub your hand across the pile in the direction of the fringe: the pile will feel smooth one way and will roughen up when rubbed in the opposite direction). Stand at the end of the Carpet with the nap running toward you. Roll the Carpet up from this end as tight as you can, then slowly unroll and smooth it down along the way. Persistent wrinkles in the same spot can be pressed from the face of the Carpet using a steam iron on "wool" setting (be sure to iron the pile in its original direction). Persistent wrinkles should be attended to, as premature wear along the ridges made by the wrinkles can result. Some Carpets have wrinkles "built in" as the Carpet is woven--try not to buy one of these! Carpet Pads Pads under Carpet can prevent sliding, prolong the life of the Carpet by cushioning the impact between shoe sole and hard floor surfaces, and provide comfort under foot. To determine if you need a pad, the rule of thumb is: a heavy, thick Carpet does not necessarily need one, whereas a thin, soft Carpet does, as does an older Carpet or a Carpet that has been rewoven or patched or which has a weakened foundation. While a pad can extend the life of any Carpet, whether or not to use a pad under a new Carpet is often a personal decision based upon your preference for the feel of the carpet underfoot. A pad should be about an inch smaller than the Carpet all the way around (not counting the fringe) so that the pad will not show beneath the Carpet. Pads can be made of materials like rubber, felt, polyester, or one of a number of synthetic foams. For a number of years we have preferred pads for larger Carpets made of a polyester felt about 3/8" thick. This material is quite dense and is mechanically strong. We have seen rubber pads crack and crumble around the edges with time, and occasionally rubber pads will become gummy and stick to an older floor finish or even to the back of the Carpet. Many of the synthetic urethane foam pads seem too soft and lightweight to provide much support to the Carpet. Curled Corners and Curled Edges Because of the way it is woven, a Carpet may have corners and/or edges that tend to curl under. Straighten them out when you lay the Carpet down. If the edges curl badly, the Carpet may need the attention of a good Carpet repair person. Using a Carpet with badly curled-under edges or corners causes unnatural wear patterns that can damage the Carpet and be difficult to repair properly. See a badly curled edge.. Sizing or Blocking a Carpet When a Carpet is out of square or has built-in wrinkles, sizing or blocking may help. A Carpet is sized by turning it over, making it as square and flat as possible, and fastening it down along the edges (we use a staple hammer). A mixture of sizing and water is sprinkled over the back of the Carpet, and the Carpet is allowed to dry. The moisture in the sizing helps equalize tension in the foundation of the Carpet, and the sizing helps the Carpet hold its square, flat shape. Note that even a good quality Carpet is rarely perfectly rectilinear. When blocking a Carpet the choice is sometimes between getting it flat or making it square--from the standpoint of what's good for the Carpet, it is almost always better to make the Carpet flat than to make it perfectly rectilinear. Used with care and when appropriate, sizing makes a Carpet more attractive and usable. Used incorrectly, blocking can distort or even damage a Carpet. Over-aggressive blocking will not remedy the problems of a badly crooked or poorly woven Carpet. Don't try this at home! Sizing is definitely a process best handled by an experienced dealer or Carpet repair person. Storage When a Carpet is to be stored for more than a few months it should be cleaned, sprayed with insecticide, and wrapped in protective plastic or a tough synthetic paper like "Tyvek"® building paper. Don't use newspaper or common brown wrapping paper. These materials are not chemically stable (they are usually quite acidic), and do not provide the protection from insects or moisture the stored Carpet needs. Make sure the Carpet is completely dry. Think twice about using moth balls or flakes--these materials have little repellent effect, and the odor they impart to the Carpet can be difficult to remove. Cedar scent is useless in moth control. Store the Carpet in a clean, dry place out of the reach of squirrels or other rodents. Periodic inspection of the Carpet is strongly recommended. Summary You should vacuum your Carpet often--both front and back sides, and turn it end-for-end once in a while. Although many kinds of damage can be repaired, prevention is much easier (and cheaper) than repair, so avoid placing potted plants on the Carpet, and keep an eye on your pets. Inspect the entire Carpet periodically for signs of wear or damage. Have your Carpet cleaned only when it really is dirty. When you see something wrong with your Carpet that is beyond your ability to rectify, don't hesitate to call a reputable Carpet dealer for advice. With just a bit of care your Carpet will provide many years of utility and pride of ownership. Carpet cleaners New York, Carpetcleaning NY, Carpet cleaning equipment rental, Carpet cleaner, Carpet cleaners, Carpet cleaning New York, Carpet cleaning equipment, carpet cleaning area Carpets NY, Carpet New York, Carpet & upholstery cleaners, Carpet & upholstery cleaning New York, Carpet cleaners. Click Here to receive 10% OFF!!! |
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Besides all that, we give extra treatment to the carpet, depends on its condition:
